Know your Chainsaw!

Know your Chainsaw!

The ins and outs of chainsaws, the know how to know which chainsaw you are dealing with. Length of the Chain You need to know how long your chain is! The number of dive links determines the length of your chain, remember the chain stretches in its lifetime. The diagram shows the drive link, it is the tooth on the inside of the chain loop; it sits inside the groove of the guide bar. The easiest way to count them is to take the chain off the saw. Sometimes these drive links may have a code stamped into them,  this will vary by chain manufacturer but it will identify the chain type for you.   Chain Pitch If there is no marking on the drive links you will need to work out the pitch of the chain. The pitch is the distance between three of the chain ‘rivets’ divided by two. 1/4″ is the smallest, 3/8″ is the most popular, 3/4” is the largest. The drive sprocket must be the same pitch as the chain.   Chain Gauge The links thickness of its fitting into the bar groove , use vernier clippers to measure.  Common gauges for chain saws are 1.1mm, 1.3mm, 1.5mm and 1.6mm. Lubricate Correctly To check the lubrication (Always use good quality oil!): Start the chainsaw. Holding over a stump, rev the engine. If lubrication is correct, an oil line is left on the stump. For more information, please do not hesitate to contact us or call parts on...
Trimmer Head, Grass Blade or Saw Blade?

Trimmer Head, Grass Blade or Saw Blade?

What to use?Trimmer Head For dense grass and weed. Clean areas an normal lawnmower wont reach. Light weight. Grass Blade For coarse grass ( tough brush/ weeds) but not woody growth or sapling. Creates rows. More powerful machine. Saw Blade For woody vines and thick growth. Use on sapling and small trees. Very powerful machine.   PLEASE NOTE Always wear protective eyewear and a visor! Hearing Protection and gloves are also recommended. Always use petrol mixed with a good quality 2 stroke engine oil. For more information, please do not hesitate to contact us or call parts on...
Trimmer Heads

Trimmer Heads

A guide to buying the right Trimmer Head for your machine.. Fully Automatic  On these trimmer heads the line is automatically thread when it becomes to short to be productive in use. To ensure that the machine has the best performance the line self adjusts. Semi Automatic  “Tap n’ Go heads, which are fed automatically while allowing you to be totally in control. The trimmer head is fed the line automatically when pushed into the ground. Manual  Manually fed heads through pushing or turning the feed button or spool and pulling the cord. You are in control of the length so to achieve the desired look. Pre-Cut  Easy to use due to minimal maintenance. The line feed is quick and easy and can usually be done without opening the trimmer head. Tri Cut  Ideal for corse surfaces such as stones, these trimmer heads are very distinctive. Using plastic knifes instead of line. High visibility and replaceable flails are available for safe use around trees and  bushes. For more information, please do not hesitate to contact us or call parts on...
Government Snow Code

Government Snow Code

There is no law stopping you from clearing snow and ice on the pavement outside your home or from public spaces. It is unlikely you will be sued or held legally responsible for any injuries on the path if you have cleared it carefully. Follow the snow code when clearing snow and ice safely. The snow code – tips on clearing snow and ice from pavements or public spaces Prevent slips Pay extra attention to clear snow and ice from steps and steep pathways – you might need to use more salt on these areas. When clearing snow and ice yourself, be careful – do not make the pathways more dangerous by causing them to refreeze. But do not be put off clearing paths because you are afraid someone will get injured. Remember, people walking on snow and ice have responsibility to be careful themselves. Follow the advice below to make sure you clear the pathway safely and effectively. Clear the snow or ice early in the day It is easier to move fresh, loose snow rather than hard snow that has packed together from people walking on it. When possible, start removing the snow and ice in the morning. If you remove the top layer of snow in the morning; any sunshine during the day will help melt any ice beneath. You can then cover the path with salt before nightfall to stop it refreezing overnight. Use salt or sand – not water If you use water to melt the snow, it may refreeze and turn to black ice. Black ice increases the risk of injuries as it is invisible...
Nights drawing in, temperatures falling, storms brewing…WINTER is on its way! Are you prepared?

Nights drawing in, temperatures falling, storms brewing…WINTER is on its way! Are you prepared?

Dear Customer, After four consecutive cold winters and predictions for more snow and ice this year, being prepared is the key to managing difficult conditions. Whatever your circumstances, your ability to spread snow and ice control products can make all the difference. Whether spreading coarse road rock salt, fine processed ice melt granules or liquid ice melt, here at KGM Ltd we can supply a range of cost effective materials and equipment that will help you or your organisation cope efficiently. What materials should you use for the effective ice and snow control? Grit A sandy texture with no ice or snow melting properties – useful for creating traction in established snow and ice conditions. Very difficult to spread with any pedestrian spreader due to high moisture content and texture. Spread-ability: Poor to Average when dry. Road Salt Grit like in appearance but it is not “grit” due to its high percentage salt content. Salt works by lowering the freezing point of surface moisture and needs a catalyst, such as friction, to dissolve into a solution to be effective. Is less effective below -5°C and has virtually no effect below -10°C. Leaves a brown residue behind. Spread-ability: Good when dry.   Processed Salts White de-icing salt is of higher purity and does not contain a high percentage of insoluble impurities that create a muddy sludge associated with road salt and grit, leaving little or no residue on the ground. Spread-ability: Very good when dry.   Industrial Vacuum Salt & Pure Dried Vacuum Salt More heavily processed for a finer granule this is ideal for clearing artificial sports surfaces. The finer...
Lawn Care Calendar

Lawn Care Calendar

January: With winter set in, hard frosts and wet weather, avoid walking on your lawn. If the ground is not frozen or waterlogged then remove leaves with a rake or blower. Also remove any heavier debris such as twigs etc. A great time to book your lawnmower in for an annual service, there are usually special deals on and faster turnaround times at this time of the year. Beat the summer rush. February: If there is still frost, frozen ground or a waterlogged lawn then keep off it. Only when weather is better should you remove the worm casts by brushing with a broom and remove leaves etc with a rake or leaf blower. March: Time to get busy. Temperatures should usually be high enough to mean there is significant grass growth occurring. Before you start cutting the lawn you should rake it with a spring tine rake which will ensure the grass “sits up” for your lawnmower. Do not cut your grass to short, adjust your mower setting for the cutting height so that just the tips of your grass are removed. You should only need to mow the lawn about twice during March. Trim the lawn edges and around any other items using a grass trimmer. Repair any damage to lawn edges. At the end of March it is time to scarify your lawn using a lawn Scarifier or spring tine rake. This removes the dead grass or thatch. If you have a build up of moss in your lawn it is important you kill the moss before scarifying, if you do not do this then you...
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